Traditional Holiday Fare

By John Kinsella, CMC, CCE, WGMC, AAC

In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, and after other profound losses in our lives, we tend to draw close to those we hold dear--our families, our friends and the greater community of all mankind. We also remember, and appreciate, traditions that have roots deep in our personal histories and endow us with a sense of permanence in times of upheaval. Such traditions are often those we keep during holiday seasons, and that revolve around food.

We are approaching a magical time of year, when one year ends and another begins, with all the nostalgia and anticipation that such a time brings. This coming holiday season, as we celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa or New Year's, we remember traditions that were a treasured part of our childhoods.

For me, as a boy growing up in Ireland, the holidays began with the selection of a turkey at the local butcher, an annual ritual that we children found irresistible. In October, my mother began to prepare the rich fruit cake. After baking it, and pouring a sizable portion of rum over it, she would seal it in a cake tin to mature. In mid-December she removed the cake, topped it with marzipan and coated it with royal icing. A traditional pastillage decoration for the top of the cake came from our local bakery, and the final step was the selection of a ribbon to go around the cake, a choice that was debated by us all.

Another ritual was the making of the base for our plum pudding, a rich, pungent dish that my father called the cornerstone of the dinner. The pudding would steam for about eight hours before being sealed and stored, just like the cake. But my favorite of all the holiday fare was mincemeat pies. Creating the mincemeat was a gradual process of flavor building that was time-consuming, but it was also a wonderful time when we would take turns stirring the mixture and listening to my parents' stories about their childhoods.

Naturally, the turkey and the ham took center stage. Preparing the turkey began with the removal of the giblets, neck and wings to make stock for the gravy. Then the liver and the heart were neatly diced and sautéed for a garnish. Next came the dressing, or stuffing, a potato mixture full of onions, thyme, smoked bacon and parsley that was placed in the neck cavity. The ham was scored and boiled, with the cure always made from the Roscrea brine, so that there was never any need to add seasoning to enhance the flavor.

The trimmings--English bread sauce, chipolata sausage, Cumberland sauce and, of course, the finished gravy--were integral to the enjoyment of the meal. It was our annual piece of heaven that left us with great memories.

Here are some time-honored family recipes that speak to my Irish heritage to add to your own store of traditional holiday fare.

Plum Pudding

• 4 oz. chopped suet
• 2 oz. white or whole-meal flour
• 4 oz. stoned raisins
• 4 oz. sultanas
• 2 oz. mixed peel
• 2 oz. currants
• ¼ oz. nutmeg
• ¼ oz. mixed spice
• 4 oz. Barbados sugar
• 4 oz. white or whole-meal breadcrumbs
• Pinch of salt
• 1/8 oz. whole or skim milk
• 2 eggs
• 1 wineglassful stout
• ½ wineglassful brandy
• Grated zest and juice from ½ lemon
• Grated zest and juice from ½ orange

1. Mix all dry ingredients together.
2. Add liquid; mix well. Leave in a cool place for 3 to 4 days.
3. Place in greased basins, cover with greased greaseproof paper and steam for 6 to 8 hours.
4. Serve with rum or brandy cream, rum or brandy butter or custard.

Marzipan (Almond Paste)

Raw:

• 1 lb. ground almonds
• 1 lb. icing (confectioners') sugar
• 3 to 4 egg yolks
• Vanilla, to taste

Method: Sift almonds and sugar. Make a well; add egg yolks and vanilla. Knead well.

Cooked:

• ½ pt. water
• 2 lb. castor (superfine) sugar
• 1 lb. ground almonds
• 3 egg yolks
• Almond essence, to taste

Method: Put water and sugar in a pan; boil. Skim. When the sugar reaches 116°C, draw aside and mix in almonds. Add egg yolks and almond essence; mix in quickly to avoid scrambling. Knead well until smooth.

ROYAL ICING

• 1 lb. icing (confectioners') sugar, sieved
• 3 egg whites
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 dessert spoonfuls glycerine

Method: Mix icing sugar and egg whites in a basin with a wooden spoon. Add a few drops of lemon juice and glycerine; beat until stiff.

MINCEMEAT

• 4 oz. chopped suet
• 4 oz. chopped mixed peel
• 4 oz. currants
• 4 oz. sultanas
• 4 oz. raisins
• 4 oz. chopped apple
• 4 oz. Barbados brown sugar
• ¼ oz. mixed spice
• Grated zest and juice from 1 lemon
• Grated zest and juice from 1 orange
• ½ wineglassful rum
• ½ wineglassful brandy

Method: Mix ingredients together. Place in jars, and use as required.