Small Cuts Bring a Big Price

By John Kinsella, CMC, CCE, WGMC, AAC

As I learnt the craft of butchery, it became apparent that the most-tender cuts of meats were only a small part of any animal. Even today, the small cuts are the most costly part of our food inventory.

In our efforts to contain costs, we are aware that a ¼-ounce mistake on a 10-ounce steak is a costly error. What is needed to prevent these mistakes is a basic knowledge of meat cutting. So, let's identify the small cuts, starting with the whole tenderloin.

The tenderloin is the filet mignon or tail, used in dishes such as stroganoff and bolognaise.

Tournedos are the classical small steaks used in many dishes, such as vert-pre and Rossini. Filet is the most expensive steak.

Chateaubriand is normally roasted, and served with a bouquetiere of vegetables to two people. The strip loin, sometimes referred to as the sirloin, is cut into centercut steaks. The T-bone steak, in England, is defined as a steak weighing a pound or less, cut through the bone with the thin end of the filet attached.

Porterhouse steak normally weighs 24 ounces. In England, it was traditionally given to meat-market porters as a Friday bonus for their hard work.

Lamb/Veal Loins/Chops

Both the lamb and veal racks have the chine bone removed, then the blade bone is removed and frenched. Clean the rib bones by removing the adjoining tissue between the bones, and cut into chops. A veal chop usually weighs between 8 and 10 ounces, whereas the average lamb chop weighs about 4 ounces. Lamb can be cut into a double chop, weighing 8 ounces, which is known as a Barnsley chop.

Other lamb chops, such as chump chops cut from the end of the rack, are more popular in Europe than in the United States. The chump chop is normally cut at either end of the rack, and in England is called the poor man's chop. (A chump was someone who was ignorant and did not understand the quality of the meat.) In most cases, the chump chop is better braised than grilled.

From both the veal and lamb loins, we can cut the noisette and the rosette. Both can be tied, and are the basis of many classical dishes, such as noisette or rosette Dubarry, Princess or Parisienne. Cutlets are referred to as chops cut through the bone of the loin.

Pork Chops/Pork Loin

These are, in my opinion, the most abused of all the small cuts. As we know, the chop refers to a cut of meat with the bone attached, but the term "boneless pork chop" has caused confusion in the retail market.

To me, a chop is a chop, and the minimum weight is usually above 4 ounces, preferably 6 ounces. To increase sales, the ribs were removed for barbecues, and the boneless pork chop came into being. Thus, the spare ribs became the more popular rib in Asian restaurants. The tenderloin can be served whole roasted or as noisettes. The wonderful flavor and texture of pork makes this meat a natural menu enhancement.

Poultry/Game

As chicken breast is the most popular of all the small cuts, most butchers use the same references to all poultry cuts. Airline or frenched breast has the wing bone attached, and cleaned and exposed. Supreme has the breast bone removed, and if poached, the skin is also removed. Spatchcock is a whole or half chicken with all the bones removed except the leg bone. The breast should be wrapped around the leg to facilitate even cooking, and grilled. With smaller birds, the cooking time is rapid, and the bird should be cooked on a cooler part of the grill.

Venison/Hare

The haunch or saddle is where most of the small cuts are, as is the case for pork, lamb and veal. Venison chops, rabbit saddles and one of the great game classics, civet de lievre, or jugged hare. The significance of the jugged-hare dish is that blood is used to thicken the finished sauce. Also, the ability to skin the hare by removing the fur in one clean sweep was a skill demanded by any chef or butcher.

Yes, it's all about small cuts, but it all begins with a sharp eye for identification, sharp knives and a sharp knowledge of the methods of cooking.

Keep on cooking.