The Myths and Facts about Venison

By John Kinsella, CMC, CCE, WGMC, AAC

"I've got a hunting license and a hunting rifle, so I'm going to bag myself a deer."

Hold on--wrong statement, wrong attitude. Hunting wild game is not for those who want to blast away at everything that moves. Also, after shooting the unfortunate deer, the meat could be spoiled by buckshot. And, do you to know how to break down the carcass? Here are some pointers:

• Know how long to hang the carcass after the kill; 10 days in the usual time.
• You cannot take the carcass to a local butcher unless you have it inspected by a USDA inspector or a state inspector.
• You must dispose of the unusable parts by properly burning or burying.
• Know what cuts of meats you can get from the carcass. Remember, in the center of the carcass you will find the tender meats; the tougher meats will be located in the legs and shoulders.
• Marinades and brines to tenderize the meat are essential, and you must know how long the meat needs to be in the marinade or brine.
• My recommendation is to buy venison, and there will be little risk from eating the meat for you and your guests.

Here are two great recipes using venison. The first one--jugged venison--was Henry VIII's favorite stew.

Civet de Chevreuil (Jugged Venison)

• 4 lbs. diced venison shoulder
• 2 pints red wine
• Mixed herbs, as needed
• Salt and pepper, as needed
• 2 oz. flour
• 2 oz. olive oil
• 2 oz. brandy
• Stock, as needed
• 6 slices smoked bacon
• 18 baby onions, peeled
• ½ pound large mushrooms
• 2 oz. butter
• ¼ pint cream
• ¼ pint venison blood

1. Marinate venison in red wine and herbs for 48 hours.
2. Remove venison; dry. Season with salt and pepper; toss in flour.
3. Put oil in hot sauteuse; sear meat until golden-brown. Add brandy; flame. Add red-wine marinade; simmer about 1½ hours, or until meat is tender. Remove meat.
4. Add stock to wine to make enough liquid to finish sauce. Strain through fine filter. Return to sauteuse; reduce until liquid thickens. Reserve.
5. Cut bacon into strips. In skillet, sauté bacon until golden-brown. Remove from fat. Sauté onions until cooked. Sauté mushrooms in butter.
6. Place meat in serving dish; top with onions, bacon and mushrooms.
7. In sauteuse used to cook venison, heat cream; reduce by half. Slowly add wine reduction; bring to a simmer. Add venison blood to thicken sauce; strain through chinois. Pour sauce over ingredients in serving dish. Note: Cornstarch slurry can be used instead of venison blood as a thickening agent.

Medallions de Chevreuil aux Cerises (Venison Medallions with Cherries)

• 2 oz. butter
• 12 (3 oz.) venison medallions
• 1 lb. cherries, stoned
• Small piece cinnamon stick
• 2 oz. brandy
• ½ lb. mushrooms
• 1 pint game demi-glace
• ¼ pint rich red wine

Method: Heat skillet; add butter. Season medallions; sauté until medium-rare. Remove medallions. Add cherries and cinnamon stick. Add brandy; flame. Add mushrooms; cook until tender. Add game demi-glace and wine; reduce until sauce coats back of spoon. Place medallions on hot serving dish; top with cherry sauce. Serve with game chips and poached asparagus.