Purely Organic

Is organic protein a choice for your foodservice venue? Chefs cite a more-healthful, value-added product and better taste as "pros," while "cons" include limited availability and higher cost.

BY SUZANNE HALL

Taste and a more-healthful product are two reasons why chefs who menu organic protein might favor certified-organic shrimp, featured in this shrimp cocktail.

At Comerica Park, Detroit Tigers' baseball fans munch on organic burgers and bratwurst. The unusual and popular ballpark fare is the result of collaboration between Buffalo, N.Y.-based Delaware North Companies Sportservice, which handles foodservice at the park, and organic-meat producer Dakota Beef, based in Chicago.

A recent menu at Coleman Restaurant in Blue Bell, Pa., included organic pork chops, beef tenderloin and salmon. And, students at Grinnell College in Grinnell, Iowa, flock to the dining hall when organic meats are on the menu.

What's pushing organics to the center of the plate? While health, environmental and food-safety concerns have contributed to the increased interest in organic meats, "the driving force is taste. We start out with people looking for safer products, but once they try our beef, they're amazed at its quality," says Seldon Moreland, marketing director for Dakota Beef, the nation's largest certified-organic beef company.

"The flavor of organic meats is what draws many of my customers," says Don Wilson, chef/owner of Seattle's Sterling Café, one of the few certified-organic restaurants in the country. Restaurant Nora in Washington, D.C., and Ukiah Brewing Company and Restaurant in Ukiah, Calif., are among the others.

Wilson went through the time-consuming and expensive process to be "certified organic," which means that his restaurant has met stringent standards established by the USDA's National Organic Program, because, "I was tired of restaurants claiming to be organic when they only had a few organic items in the kitchen. I decided to raise the bar and set us apart," he says.

Making the organic choice

Chefs and operators cite various reasons for choosing organic meats, poultry and seafood. Wilson firmly believes that organic products are more healthful. "I don't want to serve my customers foods that are filled with chemicals and pumped with hormones," he says.

Jim Coleman, chef/owner of Coleman Restaurant, feels that organic products are "in keeping with my emphasis on local ingredients and the history of our area." His restaurant is located on the grounds of an historic farm, which also houses a hotel and meeting facility. "I'm not trying to make a political statement by using organic meats. But," he says, "I do think they taste better."

Rolf Baumann, CEC, corporate chef for Sportservice, believes organics are the wave of the future. "As the baby boomers get older and become more concerned about health, I believe they'll move toward organics," he says.

The diverse clientele served by Sportservice and other Delaware North Companies' operations also contributed to management's decision to increase organic offerings. "More people today of all ages are aware of organic products and want them," Baumann says.

Most producers of organic foods (there are exceptions for small operations) must have USDA certification to use the term "organic" when marketing products such as this New York pepper steak.

In response to what it sees as a growing trend, and because of the company's corporate commitment to sustainable agriculture, Delaware North not only serves organic burgers and sausage, but has added organic meats and poultry options in its sit-down dining and catering operations at sports venues. "About one in five catering customers opts for the organic menu," Baumann says. The company also uses organic protein sources in Yosemite National Park's upscale Awahnee Inn and other fine-dining rooms served by its Parks and Resorts division. "We have a wide range of organic meats, including beef, pork, poultry and bison on our menus. About a year and a half ago, we even started buying organic shrimp," Baumann adds.

"Grinnell College students love the very idea of organic products, including organic meats," says Scott Turley, CEC, the school's executive chef. "At our all-Iowa organic welcome-back dinner last fall, we grilled organic chicken and roasted Black Angus organic top round. The students loved them. They're always asking for more organic meat dishes."

A burger made with certified-organic beef will cost more than a similar version using conventionally raised beef, but those who menu organic meats agree that the quality is worth it.

Organic pros and cons

Turley would love to oblige, and sometimes does, but availability, quality and cost prevent him from putting organic meats on the menu regularly. "We operate two dining halls and feed 1,400 students. I'd use more organic meats if the availability was better," he says. "Cost is a factor, too. Sometimes, if a supplier is having a sale, I'll buy organic. But I can't afford to use it all the time. And," he adds, "I wasn't all that satisfied with the chickens and beef I bought. The chickens were a little bigger than normal and had a denser texture and stronger flavor. The beef had a good taste, but was smaller and leaner than I usually buy."

"Organic meats are a value-added product. The cost of producing them is higher and the price is higher, but they're also a way for restaurants to set themselves apart from the competition," says Susan Jasper, public relations director for Wholesome Harvest in Colo, Iowa, which also holds the certified-organic designation.

Although lamb and steaks are among the company's most popular products, "chicken is what most people start with when they're going organic," Jasper says.

Dakota Beef's Moreland explains that on the retail level, organic beef is about 25% more expensive than conventionally raised beef. "When compared to natural beef, though, the cost difference is only about 5%," he says.

Although Coleman is using organic meats in his restaurants, "there's no way I could use it for banquets," he says. "Our local producers couldn't provide enough product, and not enough people really care enough to pay extra for it." While he admits that organic meats are more expensive, he believes the quality is worth the added price. "Everything is very fresh. The chickens and turkeys look like chickens and turkeys. They're proportioned evenly, so they cook more evenly. And, our pork is unbelievable. It makes being a good chef very easy."

Wilson also buys organic pork, but finds it a little too fatty. "I'm working with my supplier to see if they can come up with a leaner product," he says. Nevertheless, Wilson is sold on organics. His meat, poultry, produce, grains, even his spices are organic. "Yes, the price is high. My food costs run 35% to 45%. And since I have a 30-seat neighborhood restaurant, I have to watch my menu prices and stay competitive. I make less, but it's worth it," he says.

"I'm not trying to make a political statement by using organic meats. But, I do think they taste better." - Jim Coleman

Like Coleman and many other chefs serving organic meats, Wilson tries to buy as much of his meat as possible from local suppliers and producers. He admits there are some logistical problems. Since he generally has to buy more than he'll use in a week or two, when he receives a shipment, he divides it up and freezes it. Because his pork producer is in another part of the state, he must order at least two months in advance. High demand for organic beef means that his California supplier needs three months to ship an order.

When buying from companies like Wholesome Harvest and Dakota Beef, chefs can order exactly what they want. Chefs who buy organic meats locally or from small producers, though, often end up with cuts they might not want. "Small, organic farmers need to sell it all. You can't just expect to buy racks of lamb or beef roasts," Coleman says. "But that just makes it more fun. You need to get creative in the kitchen and use all that you buy. We turn lamb trimmings into sausage and braise the shanks."

Organic meats in the kitchen

Organic meats, poultry and seafood play the same role in the kitchen as conventionally produced products. They have no menu limitations. While some chefs say they're tougher than their conventional counterparts, most describe them as leaner.

"Organic meats cook more quickly. You need a good grill guy to do a bone-in porterhouse properly, because there's no layer of fat to break down," Coleman says.

"And, you must have a supplier that will dry-age that beef. I had some beef right off the hoof, and it was as tough as shoe leather," Wilson adds.

"When roasting chicken, it's a good idea to add some chicken fat to the pan," Baumann advises.

While no one knows for sure if organic protein sources are a trend or a marketing technique, most chefs agree that they're a niche market that's growing and here to stay.

"Organic meats aren't flying off the counter right now," Baumann says. "But, I predict that in five years, menus will be 50% organic."

Suzanne Hall is based in Soddy-Daisy, Tenn.

What Is Organic Certification?

No current law prohibits a restaurant from calling itself organic, but to be "certified organic," restaurants must meet stringent standards established by the USDA's National Organic Program (www.ams.usda.gov/nop). They must also be "inspected" by a state agency or private certification company approved by the USDA. Restaurant Nora received organic certification in April 1999, becoming the first restaurant to achieve the designation. The certification means that 95% or more of all ingredients used in the restaurant must come from certified-organic farmers, growers and suppliers. Although there are exceptions for small operations, most producers of organic foods, including meat, poultry and seafood, must have USDA certification to use the term "organic" when marketing their products. In addition to Chicago-based Dakota Beef, the nation's largest certified-organic beef company, and Wholesome Harvest of Colo, Iowa, which sells a variety of organic meats and poultry, other companies that have sought and received certification include Ocean Boy Farms in Clewiston, Fla., the nation's largest producer of certified-organic shrimp. To be certified organic, fish and seafood products must be the product of aquaculture. Ocean Boy Farms produces its shrimp at two farms in Florida.